FACTS ABOUT...

 
Breeding the BCI :
Breeding the boa BCI is a very rewarding endeavor . There is much debate on what is the best method to breed the BCI. In all likely hood I am persuaded to believe the boas breed in spite of the parameters we set for them to breed in captivity . There are a some general conditions that must be met for these animals to breed and these are universal .First and foremost they must be healthy . An unhealthy animal will never produce healthy viable offspring and will jeopardize the life of the intended breeder . Second is the age ,maturity and size of the animal . You can rush size .You cannot rush maturity! Some may differ with this method yet it has worked very well for my purposes . Hypo boa females will normally breed at 2.5 to 3 years of age because of the Central American gene influence . Common Colombians are more apt to go in 3.5 to 4 years of age however if a Colombian female meets my personal criteria for breeding I will try her . My criteria is very simple . If a female is 8 lbs or above by 2.5 years of age ,not by power feeding but by steady natural growth I will give her a go . My third parameter is absolute to any breeder and that is to keep the male and female separate until breeding season this is essential .I keep my males small usually around 3 to 4 feet and very lean as they seem to do a better job breeding .The majority of males will breed at 18 months of age . My season differs somewhat from others and has proven to be perfect for my Southern climate . I start my breeding season on September 1st when the last small meal is given to both males and females . I have found that many second year breeders will generally stop feeding in September regardless.The light cycle is natural simply thru the windows of my facility. After a 2 week cleaning out period in which all intended animals have defecated we are ready to introduce the animals as well as adjusting the temperature . My method is very simple starting on September 15th . I leave the heating mat on a timer at 80 degrees from 6 AM to 6 PM for the first month of the "cooling down" period which is very mild . I keep the room temp a constant 77 degrees the full term of the "cooling cycle" .I would like to note that at 77 degrees I have never had a respiratory infection in any animal during this cycle. During this time I see a lot of courting . No food is offered until October 15th .At this time I lower the amount of time of available heat to 10 hours 6 AM to 4 PM and offer smaller than normal meals to males and females at 2 week intervals , some will eat some will not . I leave the temps the same as mentioned above thru December 15th. At this time the majority of my females will have ovulated and followed with a post ovulation shed which is documented and forecasted to 105 days from the day of the shed for the females to drop their clutches . I raise my heat mat temps up to 86 degrees 24 -7 as well as increasing the room temp to 82 degrees . Those that haven't ovulated will normally do so within a month of temperature increase . I continue to offer small meals up until 6 weeks from the projected birth of the babies .This is my regimen of cycling and breeding the Colombian boa since 1993 . Earlier in my breeding attempts I tried the extreme cooling method and was met with disappointing results . I hope this proves helpful to your breeding success .

Darrin Brasher copyright 2004


IS MY BOA HYPO OR SALMON?

Hypos and salmons are the same animal. Here is a simple way to look at this trait:

Hypomelanism does two things in a snake: (1) It enhances red to a lesser degree. (2) It reduces black to a larger degree.

When a hypo is bred to a normal, about half will show the trait. The other half are normal animals. THEY ARE NOT HET FOR HYPO. Hypos are not het for salmon. They are hypomelanistic. Hypomelanism is a proven dominant trait. Once a super proves out of a co-dom line, it is then considered a dominant rather than co-dom.

Now let's look at the pigmentation of a hypo or "salmon".

If you take an F-1 hypo and breed it to an F-1 hypo, your offspring will have had a strong reduction in black, thus showing more red, pink, and salmon colors. The offspring will generally lose some pattern along the way also.

Suppose you line breed a daughter back to the father? Again, the black is reduced. Additionally, the animal will appear an even more salmon color. Consider stripping a layer of black from the animal.

 

What Jungles are and are not:

I was asked to define and hopefully bring more light and clarity on exactly what a jungle boa is and what it is not. The jungle boa is an established genetic morph. It is not a random aberrant anomaly that pops up in clutches or imported from Central America. Jungle boas originated in Sweden and were purchased by Pete Kahl. Jungle boas have been proven a dominant trait by Pete. The animals themselves are easily identifiable as opposed to their litter mates when born. This is where the junglish pattern which would appear to be "aberrancy" is the variance of the genetic morph itself. The jungle pattern in numbers exhibits many facets from skewed saddles to zigzag, long striped tail, fully striped animals to my favorite, the chain pattern.

However, in these cases, the genetic material is the same and a lower end jungle can produce all of the afore mentioned patterns. Jungle-to-jungle produces super jungles. Jungles-to any normal animal or various morphs would produce approximately 50% jungles. Mileage will vary according to numbers produced.

Bottom line on jungles: the animal must have the Swedish lineage whether you buy from Pete, Jeremy Stone, or yours truly. Make sure you know where the founding stock came from. There are animals that are out there that have a jungle appearance. This is aberrancy and not genetic. You can find more information on Pete Kahl's site.

 

What makes a Boa pastel?

The pastel boa, coined by Jeff Ronne, has proven to be a valuable asset to the boa community. It is a very beautiful stand-alone animal. This is another trait I feel there is much confusion over.

I have talked to Jeff many times about this trait and would like to use some of his own text to help describe the trait. The first and foremost thing I believe addressed is the genetic makeup of the animal. The pastel is a result of polygenics.

So what is polygenics? Polygenic = multiple alleles. A simple way to look at this genetically is rather than looking at a single gene having two alleles, you may look at each gene as having many possible alleles that affect color mutations such as the many colors in your eye. This is often times overlooked in the overall color and appearance of a reptile.

Now let's look at Jeff's description "A Pastel is this: A boa that has an odd overall wash lacking the normal amount of black and a reduction in black pigmentation, in particular throughout the pattern. This is particularly apparent in babies, which have the same kind of washed-out pattern as Hypos.

The saddles, as well as the side blotches, have less black than "normal". In fact, often the side blotches have no black whatsoever. That's it. No more. No less. Too often people think "Pastel" as I have described it is a color trait. 

Even after reading my little [tome], some people can still come away thinking that the Pastel Trait has everything to do with color. It does not. The Pastel trait allows color to be seen in more of it's beauty. The Pastels people love the most are the ones with the most color. However, the Pastel trait is about the degree of black, period. Jeff also has stated that the pastel is not a dominant or co-dom trait as many people have speculated. I can't make Hypos without using a Hypo. I could not go to a show and select the right animals and "make" Hypo Boas. I can't "make" an albino without having an animal that carries the gene. I can however, "make" Pastels. Meaning, I could go to a show and through carefully picking the correct animals, without selecting Pastels, I could in probably just two generations "make" Pastels. This is because it is a polygenic that can be bred for.

I have done several bloodlines and could easily do it again. A "mutation" cannot be selected for. A selectively bred polygenic trait can be. That is the bottom line. My hopes in writing this or any article is to shed needed light on a subject that might not be as cut and dry as a simple recessive gene and polygenics is one of those subjects. My past work has involved working with color pigments as has Jeff's which I feel he would agree, has been a major asset in understanding and working with and striving for beautiful colors in boas."

 

 

Boas: Viva la Revolucion

The boa boom is upon us and we who are living in the golden age of this reptile renaissance are a very fortunate group of individuals. From humble beginnings as a pet trade staple, the Colombian boa, as well as many Central American boas, has emerged as a super star in the world of reptiles. Sporting colors, patterns, and varieties that blow the mind, the revolution has just begunI have been fortunate to have lived in the earlier days of these wonderful animals; before the gigantic investment potential came to fruition. I watched in awe as the various morphs snaked their way through our imaginations and into our homes. Still, there is more.We live in the day of the albino boa, Hypomelanistic, Sunglow, Motley, Arabesque,  Jungle, T- positive Nicaraguan just to name a few. Others are on the horizon including the “Chain boa” (if proven out by yours truly) as well as the much anticipated red albino boa which many are racing to create .There will be many animals through line breeding and cross breeding that will surely astound us.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           III I dare to dream that we are closer to what many would consider to be the crown jewel of boas, the luecistic boa. Can you imagine a six feet plus animal as if carved from the whitest of ivory with blue or black eyes?  The mind races and the heart quickens at the thought of what I know will be produced and reproduced in the years to come. 

The Internet has offered many innovative avenues of boa husbandry and breeding.

We learn more each year as greater numbers of individuals share their hands-on education from years of breeding trials. The boa market, like many other commercial markets, is fueled by design and color. The excitement flourishes with each new season as the common to the extraordinary is born. Likewise, each new year we hope for something more fantastic than the year before. I’ve often likened this to a kid at Christmas.                                                                            

Those herpers who haven’t bred boas or even owned boas have truly missed out on a fantastic experience and a wonderful animal. The size of a Colombian is enough to satisfy most of a “big snake” feel, yet small enough to handle alone and collect in larger numbers than one could with members of the giant constrictor family. Even though I have way too many animals at my facility to handle frequently, I have found distinct personalities from snake to snake and more of owner recognition than other species I have kept and bred.

In my most humble opinion, I feel that the common Boa Constrictor Imperator is one of the best pet snakes available. Today with the emergence of the dwarf boa into the main stream, there are even more reasons to add boas to your collection.  The term for love or money does come to mind concerning the BCI and other boa subspecies and the answer to that would be “yes” to both.

There is a giant circle that revolves and more herpers jump in every day making it even larger. This is, of course, the revolucion that titles the article. Those who fall in love with these wonderful animals will continue their pursuits regardless. There is always one more snake to breed, one more snake to sell, and one more snake to buy thus completing the circle. Then it begins again. What a fantastic revolution in which to be involved!

Boas, in my opinion, are and will continue to be an excellent candidate for investment. Still, one must realize there are pitfalls as well as gains. Livestock is dead stock at some point in time. Animals may never breed, or take twice as long as expected. However this is true with all forms of livestock.  Indeed, this is a work of patience and therefore has to be a work of love so as not to disappoint.   

Thirteen years have past since my first boa breeding, and with each new year and successful breeding there is the same sense of excitement to see those beautiful little baby boas being born . Most things get old after time but this is one thing that never does. 

 I compared snake breeding and birth to a kid at Christmas. It certainly is as far as I’m concerned. The best thing is that unlike the kid at Christmas where the presents got old after a few weeks and maybe stuck back in the closet and forgotten, once you get hooked on the boa revolution you won’t want to put it on the shelf because you’ve grown tired of it. You’ll want more and more. You’ll want to see even more babies born and the new morphs in just the right cage you have picked.

 This industry has come a long way from the common pet store boa to the living works of art we have brought into our homes and framed in a cage . The boom of the boa revolution awaits. Will you become a part of it, or let it pass you by? Boas: viva la revolucion! Translation; Boas: live the revolution! Darrin Brasher 2005

 

also how about putting this article up
 
The Skinny on boa breeder males

I have been breeding my passion ,the boa constrictor imperator for the last fifteen years and in that time I have continually sought after better and brighter ways to accomplish the best bang for the buck . Back in the beginning of my career in progress on the road to becoming a professional breeder I studied every thing I could get my hand on concerning breeding and care of the BCI .During this time there wasn’t a computer in every home and the various breeding manuals were all that was available at the time . As most older information evolves into more accurate and up to date information the “skinny” on breeder males is no exception . In the earlier days the recommendations tended to be the same and in some cases that information is still being used . The word was that male boas should be six to seven feet in order to be a good candidate as a breeder . This is where for the last 4 years of breeding I go totally the other way on . I tried the large males earlier on and was met with much disappointment in my breeding efforts . After a few years of such disappointment I started downsizing my breeder males . Now by downsizing I really mean downsizing .In keeping close records I was beginning to notice that the smaller males perhaps a lean 4 feet were doing a much better job . This is where the experiment began . With each consecutive year I was introducing males smaller than the year before . What may have a been a 4 foot 3 pound male at 18 months dropped down to a 3 foot 2.5 pound male at the same age and my results were getting even better . The rationale for this is simple logic and a track sports analogy lays this out beautifully . Take a look at the relative mass of a sprinter as compared to a long distance runner . The sprinter carries likely twice as much mass as the long distance runner but who can endure the longest ? We know that female boas likely take the most patience of any snake to breed . I have had animals go a full 6 months before copulation was allowed . So does the powerful fastest approach of a sprinter work best or the long distance runner ? Easy one huh ? So that brings us back to the mass issue . A very large boa will not likely go the distance and requires a lot more fuel than the much leaner male . This brought me even further to the lean extreme last season using animals in the 2 pound range and I was very pleased with the results . Now to the most interesting aspect ,this season every male I have used are all weighing in the 18 to 20 ounces at a range of 17 months old to 3 years old . These have performed better than any males I have ever used . Some fellow breeders had doubts as to whether or not a male that small would be a champion breeder but my gut said yes and it was correct . Most have saw the gem that is no longer with us “The Brasher Bloodred Hypo “ . This snake was grown quickly and didn't breed for me until he was past 5 years old and died after that breeding . The coral female he did breed was very receptive and ovulated early .I feel in looking back had I kept this male to a much smaller size I would have gotten more than one small clutch from him . A question arose as to whether or not males this small could breed massive females . The answer to that is a resounding yes ! A 20 ounce albino male successfully bred a monster 25 pound hypo het for albino then immediately started courting another het albino female , this female ovulated as well 3 months later . This guy had plenty of spurring action and energy to breed a female over ten times his weight . Another interesting fact is the overall activity of every male in this weight range is simply nonstop . Every time I go into the facility I see tails waving in the air . I can pull these males about once per month and offer a small prey item and they eat and go directly back to there job . I have been amazed at the sheer tenacity of these animals and it is by far the best of the best in my size experiments . A question you may have is my husbandry techniques for these animals and keeping them at this “skinny” size . First I believe in feeding baby boas only mice for the first 6 months of their lives ,no rats . Secondly I feed males and females weekly until around 2 feet and this will correspond to the 6 month mouse feeding schedule . Once a male has reached the 6 month mark he is fed rat pups, nothing bigger approximately 20 to 25 feedings for the next year . This will put the male at the correct weight and size right on the 18 month of age breeding schedule . The male is then fed as stated earlier usually once per month during courtship . I have suffered no ill affects in pulling the males during this time . Once breeding has finished I will put the male back on the once every 2 week feeding schedule through out adulthood . This “skinny” male method appears to be ideal for the larger breeder . Space requirements are minimal as well as cage maintenance and cleaning . Food bills are considerably cheaper as well as heating cost per rack . Overall I couldn't be more pleased with these results . Will I try smaller ? If its not broke don’t fix it . As far as I'm concerned the old saying is definitely true in breeder males ,”thin is definitely in" . Darrin Brasher copyright 2006

 
 
 
Disease Resistance to Antibiotic Therapy

Being in the business of a professional reptile breeder with a background in pharmacology I get a lot of calls and e-mails asking for recommendations in treating sick animals thus this article .

There is a growing problem in the reptile world that hasn't been addressed as I feel it needs be and this is the purpose for this article . What is this growing problem you may ask ? The problem stems from overuse of antibiotics as well as under dosing and not following the entire length of the dosing regimen .

At some point or another your animals are going to get sick and if available we normally pick up the most widely used drug say Baytril as an example. So where is the problem in this ? The problem is a resistance to the very antibiotics that may save your animals life . How does this happen ? One means of this is mutation of bacteria to new drugs developed . This is an absolute uphill battle and a very slow one at that . In the 40’s when penicillin was first produced it was deemed a “miracle drug” and at the time it certainly was destroying almost every germ it came in contact with. Some 60 years later penicillin is rarely used to treat even minor infections as bacteria becomes more sophisticated. The crux of the problem of drug resistance is due generally to three things :

 

1.The bacteria DNA can go through a spontaneous mutation .

2.Bacterium may take up DNA from another bacteria called microbial sex transformation

3.Resistance can also take place by plasmid . Plasmid is when a small circle of bacterial DNA can move back and forth between other bacteria lending it the necessary resistance to any bacteria it has survived giving it the ability to resist or even destroy antibiotics .

Smart germ mechanics .

These microbial bacteria are very smart in the way they affect antibiotics . They can target and disable the drug itself or even cause the drug to be unable to enter the cell wall of the bacterium making it totally useless .One interesting thing about the germs that we face is that the majority of the DNA make up of these germs are 95-99 percent the same so you can see how easily it is for the germs to share DNA with each other creating multiple mutations . This has led many in the scientific field to believe that most bacteria share the same origin.

How does this information apply to my collection and what can I do to avoid these problems ? Many of the afore mentioned problems occur by simply overuse of antibiotics . Lets face it , it’s a very simple thing to shoot what we have on hand for any number of maladies and this is one of the biggest problems . One of the things with these germs is what doesn’t kill them makes them stronger . A simple way to look at this is a flu shot . We take a shot of the killed virus to allow our antibodies to adapt and create immunity to the particular strain of the year . This is a similar way that the germs themselves develop drug resistance . Now if another strain of the flu virus comes through it is of a different genetic makeup so the shot is totally ineffective for this strain . If the correct antibiotic is not used to treat the suspected bacteria it allows other germs to create this resistance . The scary and dangerous thing that can occur is that these germs can be passed through air , water and even copulation . This then can spread to other animals in your collection and make them resistant to the antibiotic where they were not before .

So how do we avoid this ? The best way to avoid this is to take your reptile to a qualified Vet and let them do a culture on the animal . This culture can then be grown in a lab and tested for sensitivity against a very large spectrum of antibiotics usually 30 or more finding the exact drug that will kill the germ in question . Many times vets will come back with the prognosis that the gram negative pseudomonas is the culprit of upper respiratory , lower respiratory and secondary to mouth rot . This is of little consequence as it applies to the necessary drug needed to defeat the infection . There are in fact over one hundred germs that can cause these problems . Under use is another problem that can cause resistance . It is imperative that the dosage instructions be followed to the letter . This works exactly as it does in humans . If we take a course of antibiotics that are prescribed for 7 days and stop at three because we feel better we are jumping up the chances of developing the exact same problem . The germ is not completely destroyed making the germ a much stronger germ that is likely now resistant to the prescribed antibiotic causing the necessity to use an even stronger drug to defeat a relapse . This is the exact same scenario that can happen in reptiles .

“So we just use a more powerful antibiotic” some may say .This is where the biggest overall danger lies . Yes you can use a much stronger drug but the much stronger drugs are becoming more limited and are created at a very slow pace . What happens when there are no more stronger drugs ? Your animal likely dies . This is where we must take the responsibility as herpers and professional breeders to limit the use of antibiotics as much as possible . Keeping records of the drugs used on each animal is a good thing to do for the future of the animal as well as your collection . Stringent husbandry practices is also a very important means of keeping these bacterium at bay . Make sure your temps are proper and your cages are kept clean . At the first sign of respiratory distress try quarantining the animal and raising the temperature and humidity before the use of antibiotics . If this action does not work use the steps in the article . Today’s antibiotics and methods of treatment are state of the art and many times the saving grace of the animals we work so hard to keep healthy and breed . It is my hope that this article is of help in keeping your collection healthy and furthering the education of the use of reptile pharmacology. COPYRIGHT Darrin Brasher 2006

 
 
 

 

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